Syzygy Sailing

Our first three dives were off Bait Reef, 30 miles from the Airlie Beach, on the outer section of the Great Barrier Reef. Here the water was clearer than near shore. Bait Reef stays entirely under water.

Our first dive was at night, a disconcertingly amazing experience. Never really knowing where you are, or what is just outside the beam of your torch is eerie. We were surrounded by a school of 3 to 5 foot long tuna. They would dart into the light and just as quick burst away. They would playfully dart into the light, come right up next to you, and then quickly burst away and after five feet they would be out of the light.

Second up was a wall dive. A sheer vertical wall took us down to 90 feet; Justin sunk to 100. From there we meandered and drifted along the wall, slowly making our way shallower and through gullies and overhangs and swim throughs.

Third was a shallower dive around what are called the Stepping Stones, seven pillars that vertically rise from 15 meters up to within 1 meter of the surface.

We then had to unfortunately leave Bait Reef without visiting nearby reefs, as a front moved in bringing with it 25 -30 knot winds. The winds whipped the water across the reef and made for a terrible place to hang out. Bobbing and swaying, we labored to get the dinghy out of the water and make for calmer anchorages.

At Hook Island, we dove the Western tip of Butterfly Bay, an enjoyable outing, where Justin spied a small shark.

We then dove on the eastern side of Manta Ray Bay, unfortunately spying no Manta Rays. The season for them is May through September, but we haven’t been lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one yet.

The west side of Pinnacle Bay was next, adjacent to a rock-cliff named the wood pile that begs to be the site of some cliff diving and which I spent an afternoon scrambling and doing a little climbing on. An awesome 10 foot roof crack juts out over the water; a better climber than me would love having a go at it. I just admired it and wished I was a better climber. This dive was a bit disappointing with respect to fish, coral and visibility, given it’s hype in various guidebooks. It did have, however, some fantastic coral formations, huge overhangs, deep slots to swim through and a couple of tunnels. I spied one tiny tunnel with a sliver of light coming through it. I motioned for Justin to come check it out and jokingly hand signaled for him to swim up it. To my surprise, he took me up on it and started to gingerly make his way through. Soon, his fins had kicked up a cloud of dirt as he angled up and through. I ascended along the coral watching bubbles filter up through what seemed to be an impenetrable mass of coral. Justin was nowhere in sight. I then crested over a hump of coral and there was Justin, his upper body poking out of the end of the tunnel, as he gingerly twisted and squeezed through the last, tightest spot.

Finally, we dove the eastern side of Pinnacle Bay, around the Pinnacles. This dive, combined with the previous one, are supposed to be the best in the main islands of the Whitsundays. On both, as in most dives in Australia, I continue to be disappointed in the visibility. Live coral was also not particularly present on this dive, but formations within the coral were. High narrow slots abounded, two in particular were reminiscent of the slot canyons of Utah, 8 feet wide, 25 feet high slices through the coral made for fun exploring. Another big highlight was seeing the 6 foot long turtle. I immediately thought of Finding Nemo as it glided along in the current. I saw a Moray Eel, a disgusting looking creature. And I nearly had to adapt a fish; an angel fish, sometimes accompanied with his three friends, swam within 10 feet behind and around me for over 20 minutes of our dive.

Huge thanks to Brian on Furthur who has been filling our tanks for us. Diving and hanging out with him and Susan has been a great time over the last five days.

We are currently at Airlie Beach, a super popular backpacker stop, on the mainland across from one of the most popular sailing grounds in Australia, the Whit Sundays. Justin and I went out on a Tuesday night and didn’t make it back to the boat until 2:30 am. Fun times were had. Lots of beer, super-sized Jenga, dancing in the streets. Huge hangover on my part.

And in homage to Greg Sutera, Justin brought the 2-step to Australia.

they’re in bundaberg now, at a marina: -24.76122,152.38649

matt here: they’re travelling a channel between an island and the mainland, south of Bundaberg.  Location received 4/11 @ 9:38PM via satellite: -25.58649,152.94022 (beautiful satellite image)

This is Matt posting a satellite position update: -25.94164,153.16121

matt here, sitting comfortably at home in New Mexico . . . maybe Jon will get a chance to put something up soon, but until then I’ll pass on some info.

He and Justin departed Brisbane on April 1st, spent some time locally out in the bay sailing with friends and anchorage hopping, then headed north.  On the 7th I got a SPOT satellite check-in from here (location also linked to this post–see the sidebar).

They have some great stories already . . .  stay tuned for their update.

Justin and I managed some last minute work on the boat.  I worked.  Justin filmed.  O.K., he did some work.  Off camera of course.  Here we battle a small issue in the galley.

Note: Of Matt, I only make fun.  It is only because of the thousands and thousands of hours that Matt labored on Syzygy that I am able to sail her here in Australia. I jest because it is so obviously hilarious to think Matt somehow did not maintain Syzygy to the highest of standards.

I’d like you to meet Justin. He’s a mild-mannered, hug-able and lovable character, with a booming laugh, and an affable easy-going persona.  We’ve known each other for seven years and only once can I remember me yelling at him to clean up our ski condo we were renting at the time. He yelled back. We made up.

He has taken a liking to Tim-Tam’s. Since his arrival, he has made most of the meals eaten on the boat. I love him for it. He bought me (us) four cases of beer that should last us for…. well actually I’d prefer not to speculate.

Justin is here for at least two and a half months, at which point I plan on convincing him/kidnapping him to stay on longer.

For four and a half months the boat has stagnated in Brisbane. However, Justin is here now and it is time to change that.  The plan is to cruise up the coast of Australia for the next eight weeks, and then hop over to Papua New Guinea and then onto Indonesia, at which point, said convincing/kidnapping will occur and perhaps he’ll stay with me for another five months. The plan includes scuba diving as often as possible, spear fishing, trolling for fish (which despite Syzygy’s terrible track record, Justin brings new found enthusiasm), drinking, merriment and more drinking.

Now that we are actually moving, I expect there to be much more to write about.  Exciting and fun things to write about, instead of the drudgery of work and frustration that I’ve chosen not to write about.

And now, here’s a few words from Justin himself:

Ahoy there!  I have been aboard Syzygy for only a few days now, and they have been great days.  Learning every little nook and cranny and starting to get used to life aboard a sailboat.  I grew up on Long Island and living near the water have always had a great affinity for boating.  I got my first small row boat as a 6th grade graduation present, and feel in love right away.  I spent most of high school sailing small boats, kayaking, and using the small row boat.  It’s always been a dream of mine to do what i’m doing so hopefully once we set sail tomorrow morning I will begin to live my dream!  I’ve never been to Australia before so extremely excited to see, do, and explore.  I spent a few days in Sydney then flew up to Brisbane to meet up with Jon and Syzygy.  Hopefully we’ll be updating the blog with many fun and exciting stories.  I am grateful for Jon having me on the boat, and hopefully my stay here as a “deck swabby” is a good one!