Jun 15 2010

update

Tag: Uncategorizedmattholmes @ 11:51 am

a quick note to tell everyone that karen and I just arrived in Fakarava an hour ago–this is the first time we have had internet access since departing Nuku Hiva on the 22 of May.  Since then, we have visited five other remote islands: Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva, Makemo, and Tahanea, and we both have a number of blog posts already written that will be added in the next few days.

Everything is going really well.

Two weeks ago on Fatu Hiva we hiked 10 miles to purchase a phone card to call jon to leave a message on his voice mail telling him to meet us on Fakarava on the 14th of june–plus or minus 5 days.  Well we’re in the anchorage and haven’t been to land yet or talked to anyone or even been able to receive email, but according to Jon’s last two posts he may still be in tahiti, or here, or on his way here, so all looks well.

jon if you read this we are towards the north side of the anchorage, one boat to the north of the large dark-hulled megayacht

all stories to follow


Jun 14 2010

Tahitian Kindness

Tag: UncategorizedJonathon Haradon @ 10:14 am

This must start with Jerome, who while not Tahitian, still must top the list of kindness that I have encountered here.  Jerome is a couch-surfer.  Or more to the point he has couch-surfed before and now, being in the land of Paradise, hosts other couch-surfers.  I found him on couchsurfing.org, which I signed up on two days before my flight to Tahiti.  He, and another couple both replied nearly immediately that I was more than welcome to stay at their place for a few days.

What an incredible resource!  For all those travelers out there who say that want a more intimate experience, more contact and connection with locals, more exchange of culture, more of an insider’s view into some new place,  I can’t think of a better way than by staying with someone who actually lives there.  The experience seems so much different than staying in a hostel with other travelers.  And while that also provide its own benefits, mainly an excited sense of immediacy to do as many things as possible now, I feel like you just can’t beat a local’s perspective and knowledge of the area.

He has taken me to the beach, which interestingly enough, there are not that many of in Tahiti.  The postcard beaches are mainly reserved for other islands.  He provided me with snorkeling gear to use there, and my first time snorkeling in over a decade was fantastic.  He didn’t join in because it was overcast and 80 degrees, instead of the usual sunny and 85 degrees.  I told him he was spoiled and jaded.

Jerome owns his own jet-ski and so despite another day of overcast weather, I think he sensed my excitement to go and so three of us went ripping out over the lagoon and into the ocean.  It was in the ocean where it was truly fun, as Jerome piloted us over waves, jumping into the air and crashing down, more than once nearly knocking me off.  And then on our return to his place he topped 80 km/hour, skimming the flat lagoon and plowing into the light drizzle that had started.  Yes, even in paradise it rains.  In fact it has rained every day I’ve been here.

So thank you Jerome, for a great start to my trip.

At the market yesterday, I wanted to buy some breakfast and eyed some bananas.  I asked how much for two of them.  Apparently however, you are supposed to buy them in bunches of 6 or 7 and I wasn’t up for that much banana.  I smiled sheepishly as I tried to communicate, a poor attempt I’m sure as I know about two dozen words in French and no Tahitian.  The young, pretty, Tahitian smiled back, and she waved that I could simply have them.  Free breakfast!  Thank you Tahiti.

At a pier-side cafe, watching World Cup Soccer, a few Tahitians struck up a conversation with me.  Luckily they spoke English and we chatted about soccer, the weather (we had all escaped from the downpour that was deluging us) and Tahitian life.  They asked many questions about my trip and I tried my best to make myself understood.  It would be very nice to know how to speak French.  

They also told me, much to my chagrin, that the cargo ship I am taking today may or may not be leaving.  Apparently there is a strike going on with the fireman and some dockworkers.  I knew this, actually, as when my plane was above Tahiti they came on the intercom and said they were trying to negotiate a landing for us.  Negotiate a landing for us!?!? Not exactly what one wants to hear when circling your destination.

A short time later, my bill for my coffee disappeared, and in it’s place was another one, again with no bill.  Timmy and Joe had picked up my coffees and were now offering me donut-like rolls, insisting I take not just one but three or four.  I had to accept.  A couple of minutes later, I asked them how to eat some strange small fruit I had bought a couple dozen of from the market.  They laughed when I motioned in question as to whether or not I could bite into it.  No, no, you must tear it open and the fruit was inside.  They kindly turned me down when I offered them some, happy to simply give and not receive.  Tahitian kindness. Thank you Tahiti!


Jun 14 2010

Finding my Way

Tag: UncategorizedJonathon Haradon @ 10:09 am

For the last three days, I’ve slept in a bed (incidentally a step up from the floor that I’ve been using for the last four months) and   when I wake up, I shower and then have coffee made in a kitchen with a fridge where I pull out some Gaia apples from New Zealand.  I choose those over the California varietals.  It just wouldn’t have seemed right.

I’ve gone into town and been able to buy generally whatever I want.  There is a grocery store two blocks away.  Walking to town, I pass a Porsche dealership, an auto-supply store, and a Fed Ex.  I know where the ACE hardware store is.  The drum of traffic is ever present as cars race by, and the hint of pollution hangs in the air.  The air overhead buzzes with planes.

The TV is on in front of me.  It’s a flat screen.  The computer next to it is constantly hooked up to the internet and so I have non-stop access to email.

This morning, I watched World Cup soccer in a restaurant while drinking a European style coffee with a thoroughly American style Starbucks price.  I played poker until 1 am two nights ago.  I lost.  Badly.

Some things, it seems, never change no matter where you are in the world.

I am not however, in Denver despite how similar all of the above experience might seem to the humdrum of my previous life.  I am in Papeete, Tahiti.

Tahiti is geographically almost as far from Denver as possible.  Likewise, my life now is nearly as far away as can be imagined from about a year ago.  The last year has been an incredible roller coaster.  I have been assailed with many difficult situations, happiness, depression, intense disappointment, renewed appreciation, lost relationships, and much to my delight a resurrection of another one I had long thought dormant or gone. Like a roller coaster ride pulling back into the station, My life has come full circle and I am once again about to join this sailing adventure we started planning now five years ago.  Six months, a year, two years, forever…. My mom I’m sure does not want to hear the latter, and to assuage her trepidation, I can’t imagine it either.

The year long roller coaster ride, however, had its affect, its ride while intense, has been emotionally exhausting, taxing.  Lately I have become nearly singularly focused on the transition from one ride to another, from one chapter of my life to another.  I’ve spaced out in conversations with friends, lost in reflection on the past year, and truthfully in moderate disbelief of what the next year might hold.  I am fond of saying right now that I am as happy as I have ever been, and what I have rediscovered in the last month has contributed to fairly well cementing that to be true.

I have not emerged unaffected, however from the year long roller coaster ride.  I told my dad I no longer have the feeling of unencumbered happiness.  He liked that phrase.  It is something between guilt, which is a terrible word to describe it, and quiet reflective pensiveness and appreciation of how my reality has settled and I have thus landed in Tahiti.  When you look at a baby or young child you can see that unencumbered happiness.  Bliss.  Now my happiness, while great, is more quiet, silently acknowledging that much happened which was out of my control to bring my here.  I suppose I am trying to respect that for the first time in my life, true sadness played a role in my being where I am in life, and that deserves acknowledgment from me.

After three days in Papeete, today I begin to travel to Fakarava.  In the Tuomotu’s internet connection is effectively non-existent, and so I am jealous of boats like Io who are able to update their blogs from their boat. Trust that I am writing frequently and prolifically, but updates may be slow in coming until we return to Tahiti, about a month from now I believe.  Now I must go catch a cargo ship!


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