Syzygy Sailing

Bought a boat, fixed a boat, sailed to Australia, sold the boat.

Category: route

These posts comprise the path of lines drawn on the map, to indicate the route we have taken.

  • Pride and Slapdowns

    At 6pm wednesday afternoon, as we were sailing out of the Berkeley Marina, there was substantial reason to be proud of ourselves.

    We had replaced all of our standing rigging–the very important wires that hold up the mast–by ourselves. We had replaced the bearings in our supposedly unmaintainable furler (“Profurl bearings are sealed and can’t be replaced,” said the rigger at Svendsen’s) by ourselves. We had sanded and painted the bottom by ourselves. We had replaced the through-hulls and added backing plates ourselves. We had repaired our delaminated rudder by injecting epoxy, ourselves. We had glassed over damaged areas of the keel, ourselves.

    None of us had ever done any of these things before, never even seen them done. Without tooting our own horn too much, some of these jobs are a hell of an achievement for inexperienced guys like us. Things like getting the rigging to fit perfectly the first time, and creating beautiful through-hull seacock installations, and replacing sealed bearings are almost always jobs left to the professionals. We did it though, and we are FAR from professionals.

    But above all else we felt proud because at 6:30pm on Wednesday evening we were heeled over and hauling ass on a close-reach, pointed directly at the Golden Gate Bridge, just before sunset, in 20 glorious knots of wind with waves splashing over the bow and down the deck. We felt proud because we had done all of our yard work all ourselves, in just two weeks and were already in the water, headed for our slip ready for us in Emeryville.

    Now for the slapdown part. Right when you’re feeling on top of the world, like you pulled off some sort of sailing coup d’etat and maybe this whole thing isn’t all that hard after all . . . that very moment is the perfect time for a dose of humility.

    I did not succeed in parking the boat in our slip. As we pulled into the Emeryville Marina a low was moving in, and it was gusting to maybe 15 knots in the marina, which are somewhat challenging docking conditions especially since our slip was downwind but honestly not particularly abnormal. However, I am completely inexperienced motoring our boat around. With her long keel and skeg rudder, she turns like an elephant and backs even worse. As we approached our slip my anxiety skyrocketed–rightfully so, because I was realizing far too late that I had almost no chance of getting us into the slip without damaging a boat. Our boat weighs 22,500 lbs–you can’t hold that off with brute strength–and the wind, not me, was in control.

    I barely got the nose in the slip before the wind rotated the rest of the boat right past the slip. To avoid hitting the neighbors boat I threw it in reverse, sending us backward across the narrow fairway and leaving Jonny and Karen on the dock. I proceeded to carve a full circle as I was blown down the fairway, able only to motor forward and backward enough not to hit other boats. Syzygy came to rest, mercifully lightly, on the stretch of dock at the end of the fairway. I didn’t hit any boats, but I also didn’t get in our slip and we were in a tough spot blown up against the dock. Compassionate bystanders came to our aid (I give thanks) and helped with docklines while we formulated a plan. We ended up powering off the dock (a delicate task, with no room to maneuver) and parked in a massive, uninhabited, upwind slip that even I couldn’t mess up. We would move in the morning when the wind had abated.

    After the pride I have rightfully taken in our successes, it was important to receive this slapdown–this reminder of how much we still have to learn, and how this isn’t a game in which our failures have no consequences. Skippers all over the marina park their boats without mishap every day–it is no particularly impressive skill. Yet it is a skill that I lack and that I must acquire.

    The next morning the wind had not abated at all, but we needed to move out of the slip that wasn’t ours. I cannot tell you the anxiety this caused me. Jonny and I spent over an hour motoring in the empty space of the marina, practicing parking around a downwind buoy, pretending it was our slip. It was horrifying how infrequently I was able to accomplish the job, even around the buoy, and when we finally turned towards our slip to do it for real, I felt more fear of the consequences of my imminent failure than I have in years. I had very little reason to expect that I would accomplish the task any more successfully this time than I had the night before. In truth, I had more understanding of how likely it was that I would fail, given the failure rate while practicing with the buoy. It was as if I was readying myself to go out on the stage for some recital, knowing full well that I couldn’t perform the piece.

    Well this time I got us into the slip without damaging anything. I felt immediate and overwhelming relief–of the sort that makes you want to hug everyone in sight and makes you feel like you could exhale for a whole minute from all the pent-up air you were holding. Not pride though–I’m not proud of it because I have no right to be proud of a success that resulted from luck more than skill–and even if any of it had been skill, it is a basic skill that a dozen other skippers a day perform all over the marina.

    So Syzygy is finally resting safe in her home, her slip. For now. I have as much curiosity as the next person about what will happen the next time we take her out and try to bring her back!

  • Boat has arrived

    It came on Monday, at long last. What an immense relief. I drove over to the marina and watched them pull it off the trailer. Travel-lifts are sweet–made our boat look like a toy. Since Monday I’ve had to earn money so I haven’t been able to work on it, which was proven very frustrating. Jonny started laboring away. Tomorrow is my first day off, so for me it all begins tomorrow.

     

  • Mexican shipping blues

    First it was the cushions. Now it’s getting the boat across the border.

    We’d planned, months ago, to have Syzygy trucked up to San Francisco in mid March, during Jon’s spring break. Before Jon bought plane tickets to Mexico, I talked to Jazmin, at Marina San Carlos. She told me that the wacky spring tides were too low, preventing us from getting Syzygy out of the water until April 9th. (We later heard stories of other boats scraping against the bottom and getting stuck, right at the launch ramp.) So we rescheduled our trucking for April 14th, and pushed back Jon’s visit to April 25th. Since trucking Syzygy from San Carlos to San Francisco takes a week, we expected Syzygy to be here, well, now.

    Then Jazmin quit (or got fired), and things got shuffled around.

    Melissa, our new contact, assured me our plans were still on track.

    Then Melissa sent me this email:

    I am writing you regarding a situation we are having from the past couple of weeks. For the moment we are not able to cross a boat thru the border because, we need a number to import your boat back to the US. Customs told us it would take 10 days, to get this number, and the time has passed for about 1 month. They deny to give us the number and we are trying to figure it out what are we going to do regarding this situation. I had not sent you any e-mail, because I supposed this would be a matter of at least 15 days, but now it is out of my hands. For the moment I have 5 boats waiting to be ship to US, and I believe this would affect your date to be truck to Tucson. I already talked to your US Carrier and he told me it won’t be a problem at all. Believe we are trying to do the best we can to put everything on its place. I hope to hear very soon from you.

    That’s why people don’t buy sailboats in Mexico…

    As I began pulling my hair out, we discussed a) complaining to our congressmen/senators; b) calling Customs ourselves; and c) whether or not Syzygy would be here by April 25th, when Jon was scheduled to arrive.

    Then I talked to Melissa, and she told me she could ship the boat on Friday, April 18th. Two weeks, ago, in Mexico, she told me (in person), that things were looking good, and that it would happen on April 17th. Hair-pulling slowed down.

    Then, according to Melissa, another boat got delayed at the border, and there were problems getting their oversize truck permit, so we got pushed back to Monday the 21st (since customs is closed on the weekend.) The only benefit: $400 off our trucking bill. Hair-pulling picked up.

    Melissa called me on Monday morning with news of another delay. Apparently truck drivers in Nogales are protesting lengthy customs inspections (which take a few hours) thereby lengthening customs inspections for everyone, and delaying the delivery of Syzygy at least another day, if not more. Hair-pulling continued.

    By today (Tuesday) at noon, Melissa hadn’t called, so I knew things weren’t looking good. She called at 1pm, and told me that Syzygy wouldn’t head north until Thursday (and that she’d deduct another $200 from the tab). That’s not good news for us; Jon’ll be lucky if he even sees the boat, and, at any rate, I’ll be bald by then.

  • thar she is

    Tharr she is, sitting in dry-dock, in San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico.